It begins with these, fresh from the garden, cleaned and dried.
Then you take this from last week
and do this with it
and you end up with this. Oh, we skipped the batter!
Crispest Batter for Squashflowers
40 g/ 1 ounce cornstarch/Maizena
40 g/1 ounce plain flour
pinch of salt
carbonated water/acqua frizzante
Put the dry ingredients into a bowl, then slowly whisk in enough of the sparkling water to make a slurry the consistency of light cream.
Dip the filled flowers into this, then put them immediately into hot olive oil in a frying pan. I use about 1 cm/3/8″ depth and try to turn just once, which keeps them their crunchiest.
I’ve another filling recipe coming up, which the neighbors loved, made of cous cous. They were really surprised!
August 21st, 2008
This is for expatriates who, like me, are confused about cuts of beef. It’s surprising how differently butchers from one part of the world can see meat as compared to those from another part of the world. Although this post is in Italian, it’s easy Italian and may help you the next time you need to pay way too much money for beef. At least it won’t be mystery meat.
It’s another useful post at Ginger & Tomato! Those folks really know how to do it.
August 15th, 2008
This is something different from the usual. This is a recipe from an Italian magazine called Sale e Pepe, and comes from an article all about different ricottas and what to d with them. This is not prettiest thing in the article, but that is a torte that cooks for an hour and my voices told me “Forget that!”
I didn’t even know what ricotta was for several decades. I certainly didn’t know there were many different kinds and from many different places so that each had its best use and was better avoided for some other uses. Now I do. I’ll recover.
This recipe called for ricotta from Lombardia made of goat’s milk. I still have never seen such a thing. I used sheep’s milk ricotta instead, the kind they scoop up fresh rather than from a plastic bin. I thought maybe it would be goatier that way. It’s very nicely sheepy, I must say. I also got tired of grating Parmigiano, so I used some pecorino and some provolone as well. I still ended up with 70 grams, which is quite a lot. You may want to try this pasta using a ricotta from the supermarket which would almost always be cow’s milk, but more and more there are small cheesemakers who make goat and sheep cheese and they may also be using the whey to make ricotta. Ask around. The more we support those kinds of small efforts, the more of them we will have at hand when we need them.
It’s called gnocchetti, or little gnocchi, but I think it is just as much a form of gnudi, which is ravioli filling without the pasta. Since I think that way, I will be showing you some other ways to use this filling in future posts. I have made three things of it already.
Gnocchetti di Spinaci for 4 people
500 g or a pound of spinach, washed , boiled 5 minutes, drained, squeezed and chopped fine
350 g or 12 ounces of ricotta from some domestic animal
3 eggs
4 tablespoons flour
70 g or 2.5 ounces of grated Parmigiano Reggiano or a mix of grated hard cheeses
nutmeg
salt and pepper
60 g or 2 ounces of cold butter
fresh herb sprigs or leaves
more grated cheese for garnish, if you please
Do cook the spinach as stated, even if you use blanched or frozen spinach, or it may be tough when done. These cook very fast and the leaves may not have time to get done if they are not pre-cooked well. I wrung it out in a clean towel to get it very dry.
Even so, the recipe has you cook it a bit after all this attention in a non-stick pan to dry it out even more. Do not add oil or anything to it at that point.
Put the spinach in a big bowl and add the ricotta, the eggs, the flour and the 70 g of grated cheese, season it with some nutmeg and some black pepper. The recipe says to add salt, but mine became to salty when I did. All that cheese has salt in it, of course. I say taste before adding salt, and that will also be helpful in deciding how much nutmeg. They don’t say and I won’t, because freshly grated it took only a bit, but from a bottle it needed quite a lot more. I also found that grinding black pepper over the finished gnocchetti was much nicer than putting it inside.
Mix all this up really well, then put it into the fridge for an hour or more.
Bring a big pot of slightly salted water to a boil, then reduce it to a simmer. These are soft and delicate and a hard boil will shatter them. Even at a simmer the water soon looks like soup.
The original recipe tells you to fill a pastry bag with the mixture and using a large holed tip, express it into the simmering water, cutting it every 2-3 cm. I say the goat is going to come back for her ricotta before you will ever get all this into the water. Oh, and they also say to take them out when they rise to the surface. Three hands, anyone?
What worked for me was taking small teaspoonsful of the cold mixture and forming little balls with it. I tossed in as many as equaled the area of the pot and while they cooked formed some more of them. For a different recipe I did use the pastry bag, but with no tip, because otherwise the spinach clogged it and I had to cut it with scissors and then poke it to make the next dose come out. I reckon pick your fights. It was worth it for the other recipe, it isn’t worth it if you are going to boil them. Simmer them. Anyway, I also thought they needed a few seconds more cooking after they came to the surface, because this is refrigerated dough and may still be cold in the center when the outside is properly cooked. I liked it better that way, anyway.
Before they come off the cooker– here is where you could use a fourth hand– arrange a pat of butter and fresh herb leaves in pasta bowls. Sage is the go-to but I used basil because it is full summer. Time enough to use sage when the basil is all blackened and dead from frost. Sob. Ladle hot and freshly cooked gnocchetti over the butter and herbs. Eat immediately while still smoking hot. You may allow extra cheese, I did not want it.
This is an intensely cheesy dish. The goatier or sheepier your ricotta, the more interesting the flavor will be. I loved it once I whipped the problems in making it, and my next door neighbors did, too. The herbs and butter are just the best with this– I would never sauce it. It’s meant to be the first course of an Italian dinner, but with all that cheese protein, I would have no problem at all serving it as the center to a meal, and it’s vegetarian, too.
The magazine article recommends a white wine from Franciacorta with this dish. I drank a rosé from Sardegna. It was here, it was good, I am way too practical.
I am now sending this off to Ruth for Presto Pasta Night which is this week at Ruth’s Once Upon A Feast. I’m tickled to say that I will be hosting in October!
The reality of cooking this dish this week is this: it is hot here. I did a small part of the cooking and went and took a rest. I did a bit more and watched some Olympics. I even washed up all the tools at some point. I did make several things with the dough, but I made them day by day, because who could eat all that? As soon as I photographed that smokin’ bowl of pasta, I ate half and I went to bed for a nap. Take it easy. Enjoy summer. Today is a big holiday here and I hope you are having some Ferragosto fun wherever you are. Mangiate!
August 15th, 2008
Once upon a time I lived in Washington DC surrounded by people from all over the world. We liked to cook together, go to the beach together, go dancing together and a few more things. When we went to the beach, our Peruvian member, Elba, brought melon juice in a giant vacuum bottle. That’s how I learned that melon was edible, or even good. Before that, the smell put me off so badly I couldn’t bear to eat it. I shan’t mention what I thought it smelled like, because maybe you like the way it smells.
It is hot here today, just the kind of day when Elba made melon juice. I have half a melon left from one Amelia gave me. This is the melon juice when it was just made.
This is 32 seconds later.
It is simply the most thirst quenching thing in the world.
Melon Juice for .75 liter
1/2 ripe melon (cantalope, honeydew, etc.) peeled, seeded and cubed
juice of one lemon
sugar to taste– I used 3-4 tablespoons, and it will depend on your lemon, you see
.5 liter cold water
a little milk
I used my stick blender, but any blender will do. Put the melon in a blending container and whiz it until it is smooth. Add the lemon juice and then the water and whiz it again. Add a couple of tablespoons of sugar and mix, and then taste. Add and mix until it tastes exactly right to you. Mix in a few drops of milk, not more than a tablespoon. I don’t know why the milk makes it more thirst quenching, but it does. This drink has lots of mineral salts in it that are very helpful when you are sweating a lot and believe me, it tastes a lot better than those sports drinks!
This won’t have many calories, since melon is almost free of them. It’s delicious, says she who hated melon all her life. It is almost serendipitous that melons abound and are cheap just when you need them.
If you don’t try this easy and healthy summer treat, then you are really missing something very special.
August 14th, 2008
eg tells me that these all come from The Washington Post, which is the newspaper that first published my recipes!
I don’t know what toybox tomatoes are.. I’ll bet eg does.
Zucchini Alla Scapece (Marinated Zucchini) 6 side-dish servings
This dish is even better made a day in advance, as it gives the zucchini plenty of time to absorb the flavors of the garlic, mint and vinegar. Cover the platter tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Let it sit at room temperature for 30 to 45 minutes before serving. If you find the taste of raw garlic too strong, you can blanch the whole cloves in boiling water for 90 seconds before slicing them for this dish.
Ingredients:
1 cup olive oil or a mix of olive and vegetable oil, for frying
6 (2 1/2 pounds) small to medium zucchini (ends trimmed off), cut crosswise on the diagonal into 1/4-inch slices
1 medium clove garlic, sliced paper-thin
2 tablespoons finely shredded mint leaves, plus 1 mint sprig, for garnish
Kosher or sea salt
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon aged balsamic vinegar
Directions:
Line a large platter with paper towels or a large piece of brown paper bag.
Heat the oil in a large, deep skillet to about 375 degrees. Test it by putting a small piece of zucchini into the oil; it should sizzle immediately. Carefully put some of the zucchini slices into the hot oil, filling but not crowding the skillet. Fry for about 3 to 5 minutes, until golden brown on the bottom. Use a fork or tongs to gently turn the slices; adjust the temperature as necessary. Fry for 3 to 5 minutes on the second side, until tender and golden-brown in spots. Use a wire mesh strainer or large slotted spoon to transfer the zucchini slices to the lined platter to drain.
When the slices are cool enough to handle, arrange them on a large, deep oval serving platter in a single layer. Scatter a few slivers of garlic and a little of the shredded mint over the zucchini. Sprinkle with a little salt.
Combine the vinegars in a small bowl. Sprinkle 1 to 2 teaspoons of the vinegar mixture over the zucchini. Continue to fry the zucchini slices and layer them in the platter, topping each layer with the garlic, mint, salt and vinegar. You should end up with 3 or 4 layers.
Cover the platter loosely with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours. Garnish the platter with a sprig of mint just before serving.
Stuffed Peppers 8 side-dish servings or 4 main-course servings
You can serve these stuffed peppers as a side dish or as a vegetarian main course. They are a nice addition to a summer buffet table. Sauteing the bread crumbs before stuffing the peppers produces a filling that is light and crisp.
Ingredients:
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 cups lightly packed fresh bread crumbs (see TIP, at right)
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley
1/2 cup coarsely chopped giardiniera (Italian-style pickled vegetables in a jar)
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed, drained and coarsely chopped
3/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
3/4 cup freshly grated pecorino Romano cheese
1 teaspoon kosher salt or sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 large red bell peppers, or a mix of red and yellow bell peppers
1 1/2 cups diced canned tomatoes (not drained)
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Use 2 tablespoons of the oil to grease the bottom of a baking dish large enough to hold 8 bell pepper halves.
Heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the bread crumbs, garlic and minced parsley and cook, stirring frequently, for 8 minutes or until the bread is pale golden and starting to crisp. Transfer the bread crumbs to a large bowl. Add the giardiniera, capers, cheeses, salt, and pepper to taste, mixing gently but thoroughly. Set aside.
Cut the bell peppers in half lengthwise, including the stems. With a paring knife, remove and discard the seeds and white ribs. Spoon the filling into the hollowed-out pepper halves. Reserve any leftover stuffing for sprinkling over the peppers before baking.
Spread about 3/4 of the tomatoes in the bottom of the prepared baking dish. Arrange the peppers on top of the tomatoes. Spoon the remaining tomatoes over the tops of the peppers. Sprinkle with any remaining bread crumbs and drizzle the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil over the peppers. Bake the peppers for about 45 minutes to 1 hour or until the tops are nicely browned and the peppers themselves are just tender. Turn off the oven and let the peppers rest inside it for 15 to 30 minutes, until they are completely tender. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Orzo With Toybox Tomatoes and Fresh Mint 8 to 10 servings
If you make this more than 30 minutes in advance, taste and adjust seasonings and stir before serving.
Kosher salt for cooking the pasta, plus 1 teaspoon
3/4 pound dried orzo pasta
2 cups toybox tomatoes or a combination of colored cherry tomatoes
2 tablespoons chopped mint leaves
1/4 cup assertively flavored extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder, such as Trader Joe’s brand
Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add enough salt to make the water taste like the ocean. Cook the pasta according to package directions, until al dente.
While the orzo is cooking, cut the tomatoes in half through the stem and place in a large bowl. Add the mint, olive oil, garlic powder and 1 teaspoon salt. Toss to combine.
Drain the orzo and toss immediately into the tomato mixture. Taste and adjust seasoning with olive oil, garlic powder and/or kosher salt.
The first two are by Domenica Marchetti and the last one from Linda Carucci.
August 14th, 2008
On August 6th, 2008 this blog entered her fourth year. Almost ready for kindergarten, and we are very proud of being so grown up.
August 11th, 2008
This is what is making my hair go white and my hands shake. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it. Tilda is sitting on the edge of a swinging shutter two storeys up in the air.
She won’t go back on the roof and she won’t come in the window. It’s adopted mother torture.
August 11th, 2008
I photographed this salad meal the other day, but the photos were unsuccessful. It was no bother at all to re-make the meal and shoot it again, because I have happily eaten this four times this week.
It was inspired by my to-this-date favorite food writer, M.F.K. Fisher. I am leaving the top spot vulnerable to someone new, just in case, but for now she’s still up there. I’ve been rereading her books lately, and her descriptions of foods that one could easily get and eat during WWII included this great salad. I take exception, however, to her green beans as remembered from Venice. “as long as your thumb and barely thicker than a hair…” I grow my own green beans, have grown several kinds over the years, and the barely thicker than a hair just doesn’t happen in my experience. In seeking the effect I have picked green beans so small they fell through the holes in my colander, but they were already a good bit thicker than a hair and besides they didn’t taste like green beans. Fisher must be forgiven, because usually when she waxes lyrical you know exactly what she means and you would have said it the same way if it had occurred to you.
I was going to publish a scan of her photograph on the cover of my book. She was a strikingly beautiful woman, with perfect bones, a mouth drawn on by a master and a steady gaze to engage you. She had her own style and for good or ill she kept it until she died. I planned to dazzle you with this image of her in her thirties, but Mr. Henry beat me to it! I call that really strange, that two different people on different continents should have the impulse to publish the exact same thing about a woman now gone for years.
My salad is made up largely of what is growing on this farm at this moment. It has different things at different meals. This one doesn’t have any of my delicious cucumbers nor any beets, which I have to buy already cooked and shrink-wrapped from France. This one has no onion for the first time. I’ve been finding tiny cauliflowers lately, so they generally have that, and even though our new potatoes are not small and cannot be left whole, I like to include them every time.
Today’s salad has some ceci/garbanzos I cooked. It has a tiny zucchine left whole, and some of my green beans. I have to buy the radishes as it is far too hot here for them to form roots, but I do insist on them.
What is really great about this salad, for me, is that I can prepare and cook the vegetables early in the morning or late at night when it is cool, then drain and keep them in the refrigerator to be eaten when the sun is pouring 100 plus degrees on my head. I just take them out to come to room temperature, make a vinaigrette and assemble that which I feel like eating. I have been enjoying a very chilled glass of a rosé wine from Puglia with it.
Summer food can be also very lavish and memorable. I remember lobsters on the coast of my home state, Maine. My only taste of foie gras was in summer near Lyon. Moules frites are pretty much a summer thing, at least in my life. Beach food and street food smells and tastes are summer memories. I think, though, when you come right down to it, a plate full of the freshest and best summer vegetables is hard to beat. There is not another time in the year when this tastes just like it tastes now. Eat it.
August 9th, 2008
That’s what it has been like here lately. I have been cooking and photographing, too, but my arms shake. I have to remake to reshoot.
In the meantime, the coolest thing to have in summer is right here.
I am freezing the Donvier and it’s on the menu tonight! Olympics anyone?
August 9th, 2008
Well, it turns out that eg is not nearly as normal as I thought. She sometimes does photograph her food. She sent a picture of her peppers.
She did not send the recipe.
She also sent this one of zucchine frying, a photo in which you can admire her unusual choice in kitchen color. Yay, eg!
I appreciate boldness. I especially appreciate boldness in relatives.
Anybody else have photos of their food that they are proud of?
Today is the first day that I help Alex a bit with Food and Wine Friday at Blog from Italy. We are hoping to have something different to say from the usual about Italian food and wine, who eats it, what they think of it and where to get it. Today he is all over gelato. Go slobber on your monitor!
August 1st, 2008
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